As Appalachian food rises in popularity, the chefs at the forefront of the movement are being recognized for their contributions to the industry.
Historically, Appalachia food was often overlooked in culinary circles, but in recent years, beloved ingredients rooted in the region’s foodways—ramps, morels, and more—have begun to make their way onto menus.
Many chefs driving the seas of change have earned prestigious nominations for the James Beard Awards, often called the "Oscars of the food world.” Only a select few have won the award.
The award highlights their exceptional talent and the unique flavors and traditions of Appalachian cuisine they bring to the national stage. These accolades are a testament to the region's rich culinary heritage and the innovative spirit of its chefs.
Paul Smith: West Virginia’s First Winner
For the first time, a chef from West Virginia won a James Beard award this year. Paul Smith, of 1010 Bridge in Charleston, West Virginia, won the James Beard Award for Best Chef Southeast (GA, KY, NC, SC, TN, WV) and during his acceptance speech, he noted two words that had never been said on that Chicago stage: West Virginia. Smith’s menus are a testament to the rich agricultural bounty of West Virginia, the only state located entirely within the Appalachian Mountains. He works closely with local farmers, foragers, and artisans to source the freshest and most flavorful ingredients. Dishes like ramp pesto pasta, trout with sorghum glaze, and heirloom corn polenta reflect his commitment to showcasing the best of Appalachian flavors. These creations honor the past and push the boundaries of what Appalachian cuisine can be.
Terry Koval: Champion of Sustainable Dining
Terry Koval, the chef behind The Deer and the Dove in Decatur, Georgia, has gained recognition for his commitment to sustainable dining and local sourcing. Koval’s dedication to quality and sustainability earned him a James Beard Award for Best Chef Southeast in 2023, highlighting his influence in the culinary world. At The Deer and the Dove, Koval creates dishes celebrating the Appalachian region's flavors while incorporating influences from his travels and experiences. His menu features wood-fired meats, seasonal vegetables, and house-made charcuterie, all sourced from local farms and purveyors. Koval’s approach to cooking not only honors the traditions of the region but also pushes them forward, creating a dining experience that is both familiar and innovative.
Adam Evans: From Alabama Roots to National Acclaim
Hailing from Muscle Shoals, Alabama, Adam Evans deeply appreciates the South's culinary traditions. In Birmingham, Evans opened Automatic Seafood and Oysters in 2019. The restaurant quickly became a culinary hotspot, earning rave reviews for its fresh, locally sourced seafood and inventive dishes. Evans’ commitment to quality and sustainability shines through in his menu, which features a blend of Southern and Appalachian influences. Dishes like wood-fired Gulf shrimp and roasted oysters with Benton’s bacon are a testament to his ability to elevate regional ingredients to new heights. Evans’ dedication to his craft and innovative approach to Southern cuisine earned him the James Beard Award for Best Chef South in 2022.
Dolester Miles: The Sweet Soul of Southern Desserts
Dolester Miles has become a legend in the world of Southern desserts. With over three decades of experience, Miles has been the pastry chef at Highlands Bar and Grill in Birmingham, Alabama, where she has worked alongside renowned chef Frank Stitt. Her dedication to her craft and exceptional talent were recognized in 2018 when she won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef. Miles is known for her ability to blend traditional Southern flavors with refined techniques, creating nostalgic and innovative desserts. Her famous coconut cake, lemon meringue tart, and pecan pies are a testament to her skill and creativity. Miles’ desserts perfectly embody Appalachian and Southern culinary traditions, showcasing the region’s ingredients and flavors in a sophisticated manner.
Allan Benton: The King of Country Ham
No discussion of Appalachian cuisine would be complete without mentioning Allan Benton, a legendary figure in the world of charcuterie. Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Hams, located in Madisonville, Tennessee, has been producing some of the finest cured meats in the country for decades. Benton’s dedication to traditional methods and high-quality ingredients has earned him numerous accolades, including a James Beard Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America Award 2015. Benton’s journey began in the 1970s when he took over a small ham-curing business. He quickly gained a reputation for his exceptional products, which were made using time-honored techniques and meticulous attention to detail. Benton’s hams and bacon are now revered by chefs and food enthusiasts nationwide, and they play a crucial role in many Appalachian dishes.
Joseph Lenn: Elevating Tennessee’s Culinary Heritage
Joseph Lenn, a native of Tennessee, has become a prominent figure in Appalachian cuisine through his innovative approach to traditional Southern dishes. Lenn’s culinary journey began at The Barn at Blackberry Farm, a luxurious resort in Walland, Tennessee, where he earned a James Beard Award for Best Chef Southeast in 2013. At Blackberry Farm, Lenn focused on showcasing the region’s bounty, from locally sourced produce to heritage meats. His dishes, such as braised rabbit with heirloom vegetables and Benton’s bacon-wrapped quail, reflect a deep respect for Appalachian ingredients and culinary traditions. Lenn’s philosophy centers on “farm-to-table,” a deeply rooted concept in a region where farming and food preservation are integral to daily life.
Christopher Hastings: A Culinary Pioneer
Christopher Hastings, chef and co-owner of Hot and Hot Fish Club in Birmingham, Alabama, is a pioneer of farm-to-table dining in the South. Hastings’ culinary philosophy centers on using the freshest local ingredients and celebrating the seasons. His dedication to this approach earned him the James Beard Award for Best Chef South in 2012. Hastings’ menu at Hot and Hot Fish Club is a reflection of his commitment to local sourcing and sustainability. Dishes like tomato salad with Benton’s bacon, Gulf seafood, and locally foraged mushrooms highlight the rich bounty of the Appalachian region. Hastings’ ability to blend traditional Southern flavors with contemporary techniques has made him a standout in the culinary world.
Frank Stitt: The Godfather of Southern Cuisine
Frank Stitt, often referred to as the godfather of Southern cuisine, has been a pivotal figure in the culinary renaissance of the South. As the chef and owner of Highlands Bar and Grill, Stitt has played a crucial role in bringing national attention to Appalachian and Southern cuisine. His contributions to the culinary world were recognized in 2011 when he won the James Beard Award for Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America and in 2001 when he won the James Beard Award for Best Chef Southeast. Stitt’s approach to cooking is deeply rooted in the traditions of the South. He emphasizes the importance of using fresh, local ingredients and honoring the region’s culinary heritage. Dishes like stone-ground grits, farm-fresh vegetables, and locally sourced meats are staples of Stitt’s menus, showcasing the best of Appalachian flavors. His work has inspired a new generation of chefs to explore and celebrate the region's culinary traditions.
Scott Peacock: Preserving the Past
Scott Peacock, a celebrated chef and food historian, has dedicated his career to preserving and promoting the culinary traditions of the South. Peacock’s dedication to this cause earned him a James Beard Award for Best Chef Southeast in 2007 for Watershed in Decatur, Georgia. He is known for his meticulous attention to detail and commitment to using heirloom ingredients. Peacock’s dishes, such as buttermilk biscuits, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetable plates, are a testament to the simplicity and beauty of Southern cooking.
As these chefs continue to celebrate and elevate the flavors of their heritage, they are preserving the past and shaping the future of American gastronomy. Through their work, the rich and diverse culinary traditions of Appalachia are gaining the recognition and appreciation they have long deserved.